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Sunday, August 26, 2012

Chile Verde

Last year for the 9th Annual LBJCB Drummer Reunion chili cook-off I made venison chili.  It was so good I tied for last place.  I think it was pretty good, but not everybody is fond of venison.  Fortunately, I don't have any venison left in the freezer, so I had to try something new for this year's chili cook-off.  This time I decided to go with a pork chili verde.  I've made a lot of chili verde over the last few years and I've got a system down now that produces some pretty consistent results.  The chili verde got some good feedback and I got several requests for the recipe.  I'm not really good about exact measurements while cooking and I have a bad habit of not writing down any of my recipes.  This won't be a perfect recreation of what I made yesterday, but it will get you in the ballpark.  After all, that's really all you need, unless you're baking.  Taste as you go and you'll get good results.  So here goes..............


Ingredients:  (amounts for 10 quart yield - scale as necessary)

Pork (butt/shoulder)    8-10 lbs (weight without bones)
Tomatillo    20-25 medium
Jalapeno chili     30-40
Poblano chili   5
Hatch chili     30-40 (Anaheim can be substituted for Hatch, but it won't be as good or as spicy)
Serano chili    10-15
Cilantro    3 medium bunches
Onions     2 large white and one large sweet yellow (Maui/Oso/Vidalia)
Garlic     1 large head
Stock     2 - 4 quarts chicken stock
Maseca    about 1/3 to 1/2 cup
Lard/bacon grease   as needed for browning the pork
Chili powder    1-2 tablespoons
Black pepper    1-2 tablespoons
Marjoram      2-3 teaspoons
Mexican oregano    1-3 teaspoons
Cumin     1-2 teaspoon
Kosher salt     to taste
Apple cider vinegar   1/2 cup + extra as required
Butter and flour   Equal parts as needed to make a roux

Preparation:

Bone the pork butt/shoulder and cut into cubes.  Meat should be cubed in 1/2" to 2" pieces, as desired.  You need to adjust the size to your expected cooking time and the desired final consistency.

Thoroughly salt and season the meat with chili powder, pepper, marjoram, oregano and cumin.  Splash the meat cubes with about 1/2 cup of cider vinegar and toss to mix and completely coat.  Let the meat marinate for 1-4 hours.

Roast the chilies and tomatillos over an open flame or on a charcoal grill.  The skin should be charred black and the chili softened.  Remove from heat and place in a plastic bag.  When the chilies have cooled peel off the charred skin.  The tomatillos should be roasted until soft all over.

Puree and reserve the tomatillos.

Seed the chilies and puree in a blender with salt and stock and reserve.  I prefer to use chicken stock, as it is somewhat neutral in flavor.  Beef stock can be mixed in to give a richer flavor.

Puree the cilantro with some stock and reserve.

Roughly chop the white onions, puree with some stock and reserve.

Dredge the pork with enough Maseca to lightly cover all the cubes.

Heat lard or bacon grease in a heavy-bottomed pot (an enameled cast iron Dutch oven or a stock pot with a very thick base works best).  I like the flavor imparted from the bacon grease, but I only use the fat from lightly smoked bacon.  If you don't want any of the rich, smokey flavor, use lard.  When the fat is hot add the pork cubes in small batches.  You want to brown all sides of the pork cubes.  Too much pork in the pan will lower the temperature and the meat will boil, not sear.  Reserve the browned pork cubes in a bowl.

Dice the yellow onion and add to the pot.  More lard/drippings might be needed to saute the onion.  Stir frequently until the onion starts to get some color.  Add the onion puree to the pot and deglaze the bottom.  When the onion puree starts to darken add the garlic puree.  Stir the onion-garlic puree frequently to prevent it from burning.  Stir in the chili and cilantro purees.

Add the meat cubes to the pot.  Stir to thoroughly coat all the meat.  Add stock to achieve the desired volume.  The Maseca used to dredge the meat will thicken the sauce somewhat.  For more thickening you can add a roux to get the desired consistency.  Roux is equal measures of fat (butter) and flour whisked over medium-high heat until the raw flavor is cooked out of the flour.  You can make anything from a blonde roux to one that is nearly brick red.  Just remember that the longer the roux cooks the less thickening power it has.  A light blonde roux is probably best for this application.  You can add the roux directly to the pot, but you will have to really whisk it well to prevent clumps.  It is easier to add stock to the roux to thin it somewhat before adding to the chili.  If you don't want to use a roux you need to limit the amount of stock added.  Only use enough stock to keep the meat covered for duration of the cooking time.  It is better to add more stock occasionally while cooking than to add too much.

Taste and adjust for seasoning and salt.  I add some cumin, oregano and marjoram at this point.  You want to just get hints of smokiness from the cumin and the herbaceousness from the marjoram and oregano.  Add fresh ground black pepper and salt to taste

Once the chili comes to a simmer, add the tomatillo puree.  As the tomatillo is very acidic, I add it in small batches, mix well and then taste.  You just want to get to the point where the acidity balances the fats.  As the chili simmers for hours, more fat and connective tissue will render out.  It might be necessary to adjust for acidity at the end of the cooking time.  Adding small splashes of cider vinegar will let you bring up the brightness.

It will take a minimum of four hours simmering over a low flame to get the pork to the desired tenderness.  Cooking time will depend on the size of the pork cubes.  You have to stir the chili regularly, scraping the bottom as you do.  The more roux in the mix, the more easily it will scorch and stick to the bottom of the pot.  If it scorches it will cause the chili to be bitter.  Stir regularly and use a flame tamer if you have one.  Some of you might have noticed that I had a heavy cast iron skillet between the burner and the pot of chili.  That probably works better than a flame tamer anyway.  Keep an eye on you chili to avoid any disasters.

Notes:
There are two components that will affect the final consistency of your chili; the meat and the sauce.  The tenderness and mouth feel of the meat will depend on cooking time.  Small cubes will cook faster, larger cubes, slower.  As it cooks, the meat will go through several phases.  After the initial sear it will be soft but chewy.  As it simmers it will tighten up and get almost hard.  After several hours of simmering it will start to break down and get tender.  This is the sweet spot.  You want soft, unctuous chunks of meat that still have a little bite.  With continued simmering the meat will break down further into smaller pieces.  While this is very good in chilaquiles, it is not ideal for chili.  The thickness of the sauce will depend on the volume of cooking liquid used, how much it reduces and amount of thickening agent.  A roux can be used to thicken the sauce.  More roux makes a thicker, heavier sauce.  If you do not want to use as much roux you can reduce the cooking liquid longer.  You will get a more intense meat/chili flavor, but the sauce will not be as thick.  To get a really thick, intense sauce without a roux you might need to reduce the sauce for 8-12 hours.  If you are going to reduce the sauce for that long you should not put the meat in the pot for the first several hours, otherwise it will break down too much.

Serving suggestions:
I always like a little finely-shredded, sharp cheddar cheese on my chili.  A little cotija sprinkled over the top is also good.  If you want a creamier taste and not so much heat you can add a dollop of sour cream.  You can eat the chili on its own or over tortilla chips.  For a twist on the San Francisco classic, you can serve the chili in a hollowed-out sourdough boule.

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images

That ain't nothin' but good right there.

Chili verde prep

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


Sorry for the overly wordy post.  I could never write a cookbook.  If you have any questions, just submit a comment or send me a message.  Thanks to all who participated in the chili cook-off.

I would be remiss if I didn't add a video from the reunion.



Tenors kickin' ass and takin' names.


Catching up again

It's either ADD or laziness, but I keep going through long stretches where I ignore the ol' Hollow Leg Diner (the blog, not the kitchen).  So here it's been six months since I posted anything.  Now it's time to go through a quick flashback to see what's been happening in the Gaxiola kitchen.

BBQ-fest

We gathered La Familia Lopez at the house for a big ol' BBQ dinner.  Ribs, two types of mac n' cheese, corn bread, potato salad and mixed veggies.

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


The serving line is ready for business

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


From The Hollow Leg Diner - images



Shrimp Diablo

I have been making a lot of sourdough bread of late, so I'm constantly trying to find ways to incorporate it into the dinner menu.  This was shrimp diablo en croute with braised asparagus.  The toasted sourdough soaks up the sauce from the shrimp diablo like a big flavor sponge.  Ain't nuthin' wrong with that.....

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images



Brandada de bacalao

A Basque classic.  Bacalao (salt cod) poached in olive oil with garlic.  The bacalao is mixed with mashed potato, cream and garlic-infused olive oil.  I also added a little asiago and Parmesan cheese as well.  I got this recipe from Cocina Para Los Amigos my go-to source for all sorts of Spanish/Basque good eats.

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


Budget Cioppino

No fresh dungeness crab or mussels, but I still made a passable cioppino from stuff I had around the house.  I had a killer tomato sauce left over from an earlier dinner, so I started looking through the fridge to see what I could make with it.  I had celery, carrots, Italian parsley, basil and a package of imitation crab meat (that's like opening the mystery basket on Chopped.  Luckily, I had some fish stock and frozen cubes of shrimp and white seabass base in the freezer.  I also had a couple of pounds of frozen shrimp and scallops that I bought on sale at Von's.  I whipped up the ersatz cioppino in no time.  To top it off, I made garlic bread from a loaf of sourdough that I had just baked.  I split the loaf, rubbed it all over with fresh garlic and brushed the top with a mixture of melted butter, olive oil and Italian seasoning.  For less than fifteen bucks we had a big old pot of tasty cioppino and sopped it up with killer homemade garlic bread.  Can't beat that with a stick.

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


My Triple D inspiration for the cioppino - the Putah Creek Cafe




Trying New Stuff

Every couple of months I get bored with what I'm cooking and I try out new stuff.  Over the last few months I have tried my hand at Sichuan and Indian cuisine.  The Sichuan period started innocently enough.  I went to the 99 Ranch Market to get some soy sauce and mirin and I walked out with a cart full of all sorts of cool stuff.

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


In addition to about a dozen different sauces, various types vinegar and spices, I also got Sichuan pepper (prickly ash) and a couple of fermented Sichuan chili pastes. I tried out a couple of different dishes using the Sichuan-style seasonings.  It definitely is hot and very flavorful. I really like the numbing effect of the Sichuan pepper and the heat of the chili paste.  I made some awesome noodles and mushroom-veggie stir fry with this stuff.  I haven't summoned the courage to make an honest to goodness Sichuan hot pot yet.  That's coming eventually.  You have to work your way up to it.  You need to get used to the burning mouth, violent heartburn and hot poo before you go the full Monty.

Keeping with the hot poo theme, I also have been doing quite a bit of Indian food.  I am totally in love with India cuisine.  Indian food is spicy, hearty, colorful and just damned good.  Because I'm an unrepentant carnivore, I am partial to Punjabi-style dishes.  I mean, what could be better than mutton or lamb in thick, rich, spicy gravy?

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


One of my favorite Indian recipes is murgh makhani (butter chicken).  It takes some work, but it is just incredible.  Basically it is tandoori chicken in a spicy, buttery tomato gravy.

From The Hollow Leg Diner - images


Murgh Makhani recipe from Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi 


 My go to sources for Indian recipes:

Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi:       Harpal Singh Sokhi's Youtube channel  also on Sanjeev Kapoor's

Chef Sanjay Thumma:            Vahchef Youtube channel

Chef Sanjeev Kapoor:           Sanjeev Kapoor Khazana Youtube channel

Show Me The Curry:             Show Me The Curry Youtube channel